Thursday, May 9, 2013

Return to the Cinque Terre

Our picture-laden tour through Italy continues. Today's stop: The Cinque Terre.

I've written about this stunning place before; five quaint villages nestled among the crooks, cliffs and crannies that make up Italy's northern Mediterranean Coast. It's one of my favorite places in the world.

Sadly, a few months after my last visit in 2011, two of the five villages experienced catastrophic flooding that swept some villagers' dreams and lives out to sea and left the survivors up to their eyeballs in mud. The communities have undergone a heroic effort to clean up and rebuild. In fact, the only evidence we saw of the flood were the pictures in shops and Vernazza's new beach (built from all the mud and rocks that washed off the hillsides and were relocated there during the cleanup effort).

Here are a few of my favorite shots from our time there...











As I said in my post back in 2011, do yourself a favor and add the Cinque Terre to your travel bucket list. I seriously considered dropping this whole writing thing and becoming a trail guide (this area is known throughout the world for its incredible hiking trails and views) for the summer instead. Want to join me?
 
{images via Elizabeth Farrar for Bella Vita}

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Rome In Pictures

If you've been following along on Facebook, you already know that I've spent the last couple of weeks in Italy and the United Kingdom with my mom, who is making her first trek across the pond.

We've been sprinting (sometimes literally) through London the last couple of days and spent Tuesday on one loooooooong flight from London to San Francisco. To be honest, I'm completely exhausted. So rather than write a lengthy post describing our adventures, I'm taking the lazy blogger's way out and posting pictures instead.

Let's start with Rome.

We started our journey with a whirlwind tour here. We only had two days to explore the city's nearly 3,000 years of history, so we focused on the highlight reel:

The Colosseum...





Gorgeous St. Peter's Basillica...



The Vatican...




And spent an enchanting evening visiting Rome's tremendous squares at night. We saw Bernini's Four Rivers Fountain (psst...check out this post for more on my little Italian crush).



Checked out the neighborhood around the Pantheon...



And visited Trevi Fountain.


Legend has it if you throw a coin over your right shoulder into the fountain, you will return to Rome.


Looks like we'll be returning.

(I threw five...just in case).


{images via Elizabeth Farrar for Bella Vita}

Sunday, April 28, 2013

Savvy Nomad: Guide to the Turkish Bath (Hamam)

I’m a big believer in pursuing travel experiences that make me a little bit uncomfortable.  What I’ve found is comfort zones are expandable. Each time I push on its edges or tiptoe out of its boundaries, I find it’s a little bigger and a little more flexible than before. A trip across the country leads to a trip across the ocean. Mastering the Metro in Paris makes the one in Berlin seem a little easier.

My time in Istanbul was filled with comfort-zone-expanding opportunities. I was nervous about traveling in a Muslim-country as a solo female and afraid I would cause an international incident at the Blue Mosque, but the boundary-testing was taken to a whole new level when I decided to visit a traditional Hamam (Turkish Bath).

Hamams are not for everyone. I know plenty of people who squirm at the idea of donning a swimming suit in public each summer. If you’re one of those people, a Hamam may not be for you. But if you’re feeling adventurous (or just want a heckuva travel story) then consider visiting one in Istanbul.

And, because I believe a well-informed traveler is a happy traveler, here is everything you need to know before you go:


WHAT HAPPENS AT A TURKISH BATH?
I am, obviously, writing this from a woman’s perspective. Men, I assume your experience will be very similar (except perhaps the bikini bottoms).

When you arrive at the Hamam, you’ll be greeted by a receptionist and asked to select a service from the menu (See Which Service Should I Choose?). You’ll be given a thin towel to cover-up between the changing and bathing areas and a pair of clean bikini bottoms,* and pointed toward the changing area.

There are changing rooms with sandals to wear in the bathing area, and lockers with keys to store your clothes and bags. If you’re uncomfortable going topless in the bath, you are welcome to bring and wear your own bikini top. However, keep in mind, most patrons will be bearing it all. I’ve read forums where some women have actually felt out of place for covering up. Above all, do what makes you feel most comfortable.

Once you’re undressed, you’ll be pointed in the direction of the bath. The bath is basically a large circular room with little fountains along its edges. In the center is a large, heated stone slab.


The attendants, who will also be dressed in bikini bottoms (and ill-fitting tops), will show you where to lie down. Most likely by taking your towel, laying it down on the slab a few inches from another guest, and saying “Lie Down!” You’ll spend about 20 minutes lounging on the hot slab, which helps to open up your pores. It reminded me a bit of lizards sunning themselves. Except, of course, the lizards are topless women trying to avoid looking at one another.

Next you’ll be scrubbed down with an exfoliating cloth (kese). Word to the wise, everything that isn’t covered by your bikini bottoms will be scrubbed; legs, thighs, breasts, neck, you name it.

 
Then comes my favorite part: The Bubbles. As you lie on the slab, you’ll be covered with waves of thick, sweet-smelling bubbles.


A sudsy massage follows.


Then it’s time to rinse. You’ll be lead to one of the little fountains along the edge of the bath, where you’ll sit. Then you’ll be doused, over and over again, with pans of fountain water.


A quick shampoo, a few more douses, and it’s time for a dip in the jacuzzi, where it’s now socially acceptable to make eye contact with the other guests. Mostly everyone just looks a little bewildered and slightly twitchy.

When your fingers are sufficiently wrinkly, you’ll make your way out of the bath area where you’ll be handed a fresh, fluffy towel. If you opted for the oil massage, you’ll be ushered into another set of rooms. If you chose the traditional service, you’re finished and free to get dressed.

WHERE SHOULD I GO?
Istanbul has plenty of Hamams to choose from, and where you choose can determine whether your experience is a positive one or a travel horror story. Some things to keep in mind:

Cleanliness can vary dramatically from place to place, as can the staff’s ability to communicate with English-speakers.

Some Hamans offer services to men only. Some to both sexes (in separate rooms or buildings). Others are family-friendly, so you, your partner and little Tommy can all be scrubbed at once.

Always, always, always check reviews before you go.

I choose Cemberlitas Hamami, which was slightly more expensive, but had good reviews for cleanliness and being user-friendly for English-speaking travelers. I also found this website helpful during my research.

WHICH SERVICE SHOULD I CHOOSE?
There are usually three types of services provided at a standard Turkish Bath.

Self-service: You do all the scrubbing and washing yourself.

Traditional Style: An attendant does the scrubbing and washing for you.

Oil Massage: Traditional style with an oil massage at the end.

My recommendation? Traditional Style. The oil massage adds considerably to the cost, and I've heard it's more of a quick slathering than the soothing, rejuvenating massage you might expect.

If you're on a budget or just REALLY uncomfortable with a stranger bathing you, then choose the self-service instead. 

*WHAT DO I WEAR?
This is where research comes in handy. Some Hamans provide guests with clean bikini bottoms to wear during your bath experience. Others do not. To be on the safe side, it’s a good idea to bring an extra pair of underwear or bikini bottoms. If you’re shy about public nudity, you can also bring a bikini top to wear. Although, keep in mind, you’re likely to be the only one in the room wearing one.

DO MEN AND WOMEN BATH TOGETHER?

No. Men and women have separate bathing areas. In some Hamams, it’s a separate entrance; in others, a separate building.

Note: Some Hamams offer services for men only. Be sure to check reviews or the Hamam’s website first.

Exception to the Rule: I found one Hamam that offers services for families and couples only. No singles allowed. In this case, the family/couple would share a private room and be bathed by male staff.  


Have you been to a Turkish Bath? Would you go?

{images via Cemberlitas Hamami}

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

If you're wondering why this blog has been so lame...

Just in case you've been holding your breath, waiting for that post on Turkish Baths I promised you and you're thinking to yourself "I'm about to pass out, and also, why is Liz being so lame this week?" I wanted to let you know that I managed to pick the only hotel in Venice (and possibly the Western World) that doesn't have reliable internet access.

Serious Blogger Fail!

So far, the access here has ranged between turtle-paced and nonexistent. Naturally, uploading pictures of women washing each other was out of the question. Apologies.

The good news is we leave for London tomorrow, so there will be plenty of picture-laden posts from Turkey and our adventures in Italy soon. Watch this space!

Until then, safe travels.

XO
Liz 

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Istanbul in Pictures

You may have picked this up from my last post and/or my Facebook wall, but Istanbul has secured the top spot on my "Places I Must Return" list. In a word, it's incredible. The perfect blend of centuries-old culture and vibrant, modern city. The people are kind; the views, breathtaking.

And the food...Oh the food! It is some of the best I've tasted in Europe. I'm talking roll your eyes and groan delicious.

Rather than give you the play-by-play from my visit here, I thought I'd show you some of the highlights.

Let's start at the Hagia Sophia:

 


The Hagia Sophia is a reflection of Istanbul's position as the gateway between East and West. Throughout its history, it has been a church, mosque, and now a museum.



One of the things that surprised me most about Istanbul was the tulips. Yes, the tulips. I just missed the Istanbul Tulip Festival, but the humble flowers were still out in full force during my visit. They are everywhere; adding a splash of color to the city's squares and sites.




Another of my favorite stops was the Spice Market (Egyptian Bazaar). Stall upon stall of pungent spices, teas, dried fruits, and Turkish specialty Lokum (aka Turkish Delight) piled high, just as its been done for the past 350 years.







One last stop: the bustling, sprawling Grand Bazaar.




The Grand Bazaar is a maze of tiny shops selling rugs, scarves, lamps, instruments, and bath supplies alongside your traditional tourist nicknacks. Expect to be greeted, over and over again, by pushy salesmen who insist you come in and take a look at their merchandise. A little tip: Smile, shake your head no, and keep walking. I know it seems a little rude, but you can lose entire days in this place if you stop to talk to every 'helpful' shop owner.




To be honest, the Grand Bazaar was a bit of a disappointment for me. It reminded me of a giant tourist souvenir shop instead of the market stocked with hand-crafted goods I had pictured. I was actually much more intrigued by something happening just outside...


The Call to Prayer sounded while I was inside the Bazaar and the shopkeepers began closing up their shops and making their way to the Mosque next door. Each brought a small carpet and lined up in neat rows outside the Mosque. A group of women waited patiently nearby.


The worshippers covered every available space, kneeling on stairs and along the sidewalk leading up to the Mosque. Calls to Prayer echoed back and forth through the city as they assembled.


It was one of those moments I'll never forget.

Next up? A Savvy Nomad guide to the Turkish Bath (Hamam)


{images via Elizabeth Farrar for Bella Vita}

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...