I’m a big believer in pursuing travel experiences that make me a little bit uncomfortable. What I’ve found is comfort zones are expandable. Each time I push on its edges or tiptoe out of its boundaries, I find it’s a little bigger and a little more flexible than before. A trip across the country leads to a trip across the ocean. Mastering the Metro in Paris makes the one in Berlin seem a little easier.
My time in Istanbul was filled with comfort-zone-expanding opportunities. I was nervous about traveling in a Muslim-country as a solo female and
afraid I would cause an international incident at the Blue Mosque, but the boundary-testing was taken to a whole new level when I decided to visit a traditional Hamam (Turkish Bath).
Hamams are not for everyone. I know plenty of people who squirm at the idea of donning a swimming suit in public each summer. If you’re one of those people, a Hamam may not be for you. But if you’re feeling adventurous (or just want a heckuva travel story) then consider visiting one in Istanbul.
And, because I believe a well-informed traveler is a happy traveler, here is everything you need to know before you go:
WHAT HAPPENS AT A TURKISH BATH?
I am, obviously, writing this from a
woman’s perspective. Men, I assume your experience will be very similar (except perhaps the bikini bottoms).
When you arrive at the Hamam,
you’ll be greeted by a receptionist and asked to select a
service from the menu (See Which Service Should I Choose?). You’ll be
given a thin towel to cover-up between the changing and bathing areas and a pair of clean bikini bottoms,* and
pointed toward the changing area.
There
are changing rooms with sandals to wear in the bathing area, and lockers with keys to store your clothes and
bags. If you’re uncomfortable going topless in the bath, you are welcome
to bring and wear your own bikini top. However, keep in mind, most
patrons will be bearing it all. I’ve read forums where some women have
actually felt out of place for covering up. Above all, do what makes you
feel most comfortable.
Once you’re undressed, you’ll be pointed
in the direction of the bath. The bath is basically a large circular
room with little fountains along its edges. In the center is a large,
heated stone slab.
The attendants, who will also be dressed in bikini
bottoms (and ill-fitting tops), will show you where to lie down. Most
likely by taking your towel, laying it down on the slab a few inches
from another guest, and saying “Lie Down!” You’ll spend about 20 minutes
lounging on the hot slab, which helps to open up your
pores. It reminded me a bit of lizards sunning themselves. Except, of
course, the lizards are topless women trying to avoid looking at one
another.
Next you’ll be scrubbed down with an exfoliating cloth (kese).
Word to the wise, everything that isn’t covered by your bikini bottoms
will be scrubbed; legs, thighs, breasts, neck, you name it.
Then
comes my favorite part: The Bubbles. As you lie on the slab, you’ll be
covered with waves of thick, sweet-smelling bubbles.
A sudsy massage follows.
Then it’s time to rinse. You’ll be lead to one of the
little fountains along the edge of the bath, where you’ll sit. Then you’ll be doused, over and over again, with pans of fountain
water.
A quick shampoo, a few more douses, and it’s time for a
dip in the jacuzzi, where it’s now socially acceptable to make eye
contact with the other guests. Mostly everyone just looks a little
bewildered and slightly twitchy.
When your fingers are
sufficiently wrinkly, you’ll make your way out of the bath area where
you’ll be handed a fresh, fluffy towel. If you opted for the oil
massage, you’ll be ushered into another set of rooms. If you chose the
traditional service, you’re finished and free to get dressed.
WHERE SHOULD I GO?
Istanbul has plenty of Hamams to choose from, and where you choose can determine whether your experience is a positive one or a travel horror story. Some things to keep in mind:
Cleanliness can vary dramatically from place to place, as can the staff’s ability to communicate with English-speakers.
Some Hamans offer services to men only. Some to both sexes (in separate rooms or buildings). Others are family-friendly, so you, your partner and little Tommy can all be scrubbed at once.
Always, always, always check reviews before you go.
I choose
Cemberlitas Hamami, which was slightly more expensive, but had good reviews for cleanliness and being user-friendly for English-speaking travelers. I also found
this website helpful during my research.
WHICH SERVICE SHOULD I CHOOSE?
There are usually three types of services provided at a standard Turkish Bath.
Self-service: You do all the scrubbing and washing yourself.
Traditional Style: An attendant does the scrubbing and washing for you.
Oil Massage: Traditional style with an oil massage at the end.
My recommendation? Traditional Style. The oil massage adds considerably to the cost, and I've heard it's more of a quick slathering than the soothing, rejuvenating massage you might expect.
If you're on a budget or just REALLY uncomfortable with a stranger bathing you, then choose the self-service instead.
*WHAT DO I WEAR?
This is where research comes in handy. Some Hamans provide guests with clean bikini bottoms to wear during your bath experience. Others do not. To be on the safe side, it’s a good idea to bring an extra pair of underwear or bikini bottoms. If you’re shy about public nudity, you can also bring a bikini top to wear. Although, keep in mind, you’re likely to be the only one in the room wearing one.
DO MEN AND WOMEN BATH TOGETHER?
No. Men and women have separate bathing areas. In some Hamams, it’s a separate entrance; in others, a separate building.
Note: Some Hamams offer services for men only. Be sure to check reviews or the Hamam’s website first.
Exception to the Rule: I found
one Hamam that offers services for families and couples only. No singles allowed. In this case, the family/couple would share a private room and be bathed by male staff.
Have you been to a Turkish Bath? Would you go?
{images via Cemberlitas Hamami}
